Alexander McQueen and the Power Suite

References to Art Deco and the work of Gustav Klimt ran throughout the spectacular Alexander McQueen collection for resort. Creative director Sarah Burton played with contrasts, juxtaposing ultrafeminine dresses with sharp power suits. She worked a large round silver or gold buckle as the leitmotif, putting the focus squarely on the waist for many of the looks. Several pieces were embellished with opulent dragonfly prints — a gold-and-black version for a fluid halter evening gown, and a Japanese floral motif for a great suit. Another standout suit, this one done in iridescent silver with an intricate cutaway blazer with wide lapels, was inspired by Bianca Jagger’s signature white numbers.

Elizabeth Arden Acquires Justin Bieber, Nicki Minaj Licenses

With its purchase Tuesday of the fragrance licenses of Justin Bieber and Nicki Minaj from Give Back Brands LLC, Elizabeth Arden Inc. is giving Coty Inc. a run for its money.


Bieber’s first fragrance, Someday, was launched in spring 2011 and became the number-one women’s fragrance launch in U.S. department stores, with annual sales of $39 million according to NPD Group figures cited by Give Back Brands. A second fragrance, Girlfriend, will be launched in Macy’s on Monday and in other national retailers on June 25, Kathy Widmer, executive vice president and chief marketing officer of Elizabeth Arden, told WWD Tuesday afternoon. 


Minaj’s first fragrance is set for a September launch. These moves will meet head on with Coty as it prepares to launch its first Lady Gaga fragrance in the fall, following the debut of Madonna’s blockbuster Truth or Dare scent in late March. Terms of the acquisition were not disclosed. 

In a memo to employees dated Tuesday, E. Scott Beattie, chairman and chief executive officer of Elizabeth Arden, said: “We are pleased to announce that today we signed an agreement to acquire the licenses for the Justin Bieber and Nicki Minaj fragrance brands from Give Back Brands.…The marketing and creative activities for these fragrance brands will continue to be managed externally by their existing team. Sales, finance and operational activities will be absorbed by the respective Elizabeth Arden functions. These brands represent another opportunity to grow our extensive fragrance portfolio through both new licenses and fragrance acquisitions.”

Ralph Pucci and Ruben Toledo Team for Furniture

NEW YORK — “I’ve painted on just about everything, from refrigerators to barns. I cover every surface I can think of,” says illustrator Ruben Toledo.

Yet his latest gig is different. He’s illustrating coffee, dining and side tables as well as benches and chairs created by Ralph Pucci. It’s a limited-edition collection, whereby Toledo will paint each piece based on what a customer specifies in the order. This manner of customizing is new to Toledo. “If you love turtles, he’ll paint turtles,” Pucci says. “Sometimes art can be too intellectual and distracting. This is clearly whimsical, surrealistic and fun.” 

The Ruben Toledo for Ralph Pucci collection will be unveiled Monday at the Pucci showroom, 44 West 18th Street in Manhattan, in conjunction with the Contemporary Furniture Fair at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Pucci, whose eclectic showroom features art, photography, mannequins and home furnishings, two years ago added to the mix by creating furniture under his label. “It’s modern, very minimal and classic. When you apply Ruben’s painting, it becomes very theatrical but it’s pleasant to live with.” 

Pucci also believes it’s a format for furniture destined to be widely copied, though he characterized the project with Toledo as a “fresh take” on a famous collaboration in the Forties and Fifties between the Italian artist Piero Fornasetti who painted furniture by the Italian architect and designer Gio Ponti.

Pucci and Toledo have been collaborating since 1986 on mannequins and wall illustrations, and the designer Isabel Toledo (Ruben’s wife) has dressed Pucci mannequins. 

Men's Designers Bring New Take to Women's

With acclaimed men’s wear mavens now piloting storied women’s houses — headlined by Hedi Slimane at Yves Saint Laurent and Raf Simons at Christian Dior — it just might spark an important change in female style.

Giorgio Armani, perhaps the industry’s most compelling example of a designer who successfully made the leap from men’s into women’s, said of the overall trend, “A men’s wear designer never loses sight of the relation between shape and function, which, transferred into women’s wear, can give great results.”

And what else might a men’s wear designer bring to the table that a women’s wear specialist might lack?

“I think the sense of reality, the elegance translated into a clean and bold line,” Armani replied.

Massimiliano Giornetti, who was named creative director for all product lines at Salvatore Ferragamo in 2010 after a decade in its men’s department, agreed that “the idea of construction and functionality — a concept banned from women’s fashion for years,” is something second-nature to designers formed in men’s wear.

“Men’s fashion always had the necessity to combine aesthetics and functionality, because men refuse to wear pieces featuring details with no function,” Giornetti noted.

Michael Kors 2013

The international retail expansion circuit recently took Michael Kors to Turkey, where the designer was struck by the counterpoint of modern architecture and classic Ottoman opulence. So, he packaged luxurious ornamentation on sleek, streamlined silhouettes for a resort collection of the utmost Korsian glamour. It was rooted in a bounty of gold that came splashed across a graphic black ikat bell dress, crinkled to perfection on a crushed panne velvet shift, and as micro chains and studs embroidered on a lace skirt. “When you go to Istanbul, whatever you think is glamorous jewelry in the rest of the world is considered daytime there,” said Kors, who bejeweled the necklines of jackets and dresses and the chunky mid-heels on the stellar (and seemingly comfortable) gladiator sandals.

The CFDA Fashion Award Winners

NEW YORK — The Row’s Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen won the 2012 Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Womenswear Designer of the Year award. The Menswear Designer of the Year award went to Billy Reid, while Reed Krakoff picked up the trophy in the Accessory category.


The 2012 CFDA Fashion Awards, which marked the organization’s 50th anniversary, took place at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall Monday evening. 

The night also honored emerging talents with the Swarovski Award. This year, Joseph Altuzarra won in the Womenswear category; Phillip Lim in Menswear, and Tabitha Simmons in Accessory Design.


Tommy Hilfiger received the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award; Andrew Rosen took home the Founders Award, in honor of Eleanor Lambert, and the Media Award, in honor of Eugenia Sheppard, went to Scott Schuman and Garance Doré.

Happy Feet

It’s been 30-plus years since sneakers as a fashion statement got their improbable start when the New York City transit strike of 1980 had legions of career women hoofing it to work with broad-shouldered suits on their backs and high-tops on their feet. Little did they know then, those women were creating a look that would last — even if it was a dubious look at best — and one that has reemerged ever stronger in the designer market, where high-tops are kicking ballerina flats off their casual-chic perch. 

 

“The high-top trend has been bubbling up for some time, and, as trends go, it usually takes a few seasons for them to take hold,” says Holli Rogers, fashion director of Net-a-porter.com. “I think it’s most prevalent now, since this year we have seen a resurgence of trends from the late Eighties/early Nineties and the high-top sneaker is certainly associated with that excitement.” 

H&M Luxury Line?

Following its recent foray into red-carpet dressing, Hennes & Mauritz is rumored to be planning a luxury brand that would be more expensive than its high-end COS brand. Contacted on Monday, H&M neither confirmed nor denied a report in the Swedish financial daily Dagens Industri (DI) that it was working on the new concept. “We are constantly looking at new ideas; it’s a natural part of our work. However, there is nothing new that we can talk about for the moment,” spokeswoman Charlotta Nemlin said. 


The project is said to involve designer Behnaz Aram, who previously designed women’s ready-to-wear for Swedish brand Whyred. In August 2011, Aram joined the design team at H&M New Business, the division in charge of the COS, Monki, Weekday and Cheap Monday brands.


Michelle Williams wore a custom-made H&M dress to the British Academy of Film and Television Arts awards in London, and the retailer will make its red-carpet creations available to the masses with the April 12 launch of the Exclusive Glamour Conscious Collection in around 100 stores worldwide. The line is made using more sustainable materials, and features items worn by stars including Amanda Seyfried, Viola Davis and Kristin Davis.

A dress from H&M’s Exclusive Glamour Conscious Collection.

Photo By Kacper Kasprzyk

Kenneth Cole New Collection

Besides moving to take the company private (which sources said could gain approval in a few weeks), KCP is launching a new women’s and men’s sportswear collection, named Kenneth Cole Collection, which has higher price points, better fabrics and more advanced styling. The new line marks a major effort by the company to jump-start its business and will impact everything from its retail stores to its marketing message.


“We’re entering this phase of adulthood. We’re about to become 30 [next year]. This is a transitional period. We’re in the process of elevating and returning to certain roots of the company and elements of its heritage. We’re turning to the next chapter, with a hint and suggestion of a prior one,” said Kenneth Cole, chairman and chief creative officer, in an interview. 


The goal is to elevate the quality of design, production and distribution, he said. Changes will evolve throughout the entire company, from “below the ankles and up. We’re reintroducing women’s footwear and handbags as we speak,” he said. Cole discontinued wholesale distribution of women’s footwear and handbags two years ago due to performance issues (they were available in Cole’s own stores and online), and is reintroducing them for fall. “We’re also going to reintroduce ourselves to the Kenneth Cole woman. We’re going to speak to her in a more elevated and engaged manner. What’s on her mind, and also what’s on her body,” said Cole, whose publicly traded company last year lost $2.9 million on $478.9 million in revenues!!!


He described the men’s Kenneth Cole Collection as “tailored, refined suits he can wear to work and after work.…It’s bomber jackets, double-breasted peacoats, it’s slim suits, more dressed-up sneakers in exotic materials and a lot of metal details.” The line includes fitted pony two-button jackets, body-skimming cashmere turtlenecks, slim-fit wool trousers, as well as distressed moto jackets, sharply tailored wool top coats and knit cardigans.

Stylish Moments in Music

The phenomenon of entertainment media product placement dates way back to 1927 when “Wings,” which took home the inaugural Academy Award for Best Picture, plugged Hershey’s chocolate. Though music lacks film’s visual possibilities, in recent years “brand-dropping,” as it has come to be known, has become just as common as its cinematic cousin. There’s even an advertising firm, The Kluger Agency, that focuses on bridging the gap between its clients and the music industry. 

The latest entrant into the pop-song-as-brand-advertisement is Madonna’s “I Don’t Give A” from her album “MDNA,” which hit shelves today. 

The track, which leaked last week, features an appearance from Nicki Minaj in which she raps “In the Gabbana in the eye of Prada/We Material Girls, ain’t nobody hotter - Pop's collar/See I really can relate to your Volvo/And you can’t get these shoes at Aldo.” 

So how many songs out there actually mention designer brands? Too many to list.

Levi's and World Water Days

Levi Strauss & Co. took an unconventional approach to its celebration of World Water Day on Thursday, asking employees to wear the same pair of jeans without washing them for the entire work week. Dubbed the Go Water Less Challenge, after Levi’s water-saving initiative, employees are asked to upload photos of themselves and their jeans to Instagram and Flickr, with the three most stylish participants, as chosen by the company’s designers, receiving $1,000 grants to donate to the water organization of their choice. Levi’s chief executive officer Chip Bergh took the bait and consumers were invited to do the same, with photos uploaded to Instagram with the tag #gowaterless.

Animal Testing and its Last Days?

China’s State Food and Drug Administration, or SFDA, has released a draft proposal approving the use of alternatives to animal testing for cosmetics. This is the first time the SFDA, which oversees the testing and registration of all domestically and internationally produced cosmetics on sale in China, has seriously considered changing its regulations to allow non-animal testing alternatives for cosmetics.


“With the fast development of the economy, animal welfare and protection are becoming more popular,” Professor Zhao Hua, who is head of the China Cosmetics Research Center, or CCRC, at Beijing Technology and Business University.


International cosmetic brands who want to import their products into China have to undergo stringent registration and licensing procedures, often using a company such as Guo’s CIRS to help them navigate China’s intricacies and bureaucracy. Any ingredient that has not previously been made available on the Chinese market is required to undergo a number of tests before it is licensed, including some conducted on animals. This regulation has become problematic for some international companies, which had previously committed to abandoning animal testing, but must now allow animal testing to gain access to the massive Chinese cosmetics market. Animal testing in China has recently become a hot-button issue in the U.S., where a class action lawsuit was filed in the central district of California on Feb. 28 against the Estée Lauder Cos., Inc., Avon Products Inc. and Mary Kay Inc. There also is pressure being applied by the California lawsuit, which alleges that Lauder, Avon and Mary Kay resumed animal testing of cosmetics in order to enter the Chinese market, despite claiming in the U.S. that their products are “cruelty free.”




Lauder stoutly defended its policies. “More than 20 years ago, we were one of the first companies to end animal testing to substantiate the safety of our products,” a Lauder spokeswoman told WWD in response to the lawsuit. “It is important that we share with you that our commitment to end animal testing everywhere has not changed. Our products are not tested on animals except when absolutely mandated by law. We are committed to the universal acceptance of non-animal test methods with the goal of eliminating animal testing. We will continue to invest in scientific research to promote acceptance of non-animal test methods by authorities around the world.”

Fighting Fakes

Following the launch of the “You Can’t Fake Fashion” campaign last year to crack down on counterfeiting, eBay and the Council of Fashion Designers of America have again teamed up on a new collection of original tote bags (last summer’s collection sold out in 48 hours). More than 75 CFDA designers, including Diane Von Furstenberg, Ralph Lauren, Robert Geller, Tory Burch, And Tommy Hilfiger, each customized a tote, retailing at $200 each. “The awareness around counterfeits generated by the campaign was invaluable and we hope to see even more of a reaction from industry and consumers this time around,” said Alan Marks, eBay’s senior vice president of global communications. “Based on consumer demand, we’ve doubled the size of the collection in addition to offering more styles.”

In addition to the customized designer totes, a limited edition range of standard totes in four styles will be offered for $45. The entire collection will be sold at “Buy It Now” prices starting today on eBay, with all proceeds benefiting the CFDA Foundation.

Tokyo Fashion Week

 Atsushi Nakashima started things off with a pair of sharply tailored suits and a dress — all featuring geometric patchwork details. The designer, who worked for Jean Paul Gaultier before launching his own line, progressed on to sporty items made of shiny synthetic fabric like a motorcycle jacket and trench coats. He also worked abstract prints into pant suits and short dresses. This show seemed tame and a little more commercial- by Tokyo standards- until he wrapped the proceedings with a handful of looks high on drama. Reprising the geometric theme, he adorned one dress with mirrored shards and created a large sculpted metal collar on a black gown. And a vampy red dress and cape worthy of Flash Gordon closed the show.

Even in Tokyo we are still seeing the reds pop up!

Here we have a great example of a cape that was the talk of the town at every other fashion week.

The velvet material once again shows itself in Tokyo. 

Watch out for the Watches

Despite hurdles ranging from soaring gold prices, the watch industry is heading for another record year, according to exhibitors at the Baselworld international watch and jewelry show in Switzerland.

The event, which ran from March 8 to March 15, attracted 104,300 visitors, up 1 percent compared with 2011, and a record 3,320 journalists, representing a 9 percent jump.


“The mood is good,” said Nick Hayek, chief executive officer of Swatch Group, the world’s largest watchmaker. “We know that the stock level at retail worldwide is low. Sales are good, so the retailers are enthusiastic.” “There was a sense of newfound prosperity. All of the brands were bringing out fresh product, and the brands were much more forward-looking than they have been in the past three years,” he said, referring to the aftermath of the 2009 global economic crisis that decimated Swiss watch sales.

The $5 million Hublot watch.

Boucheron Cypris Tourbillon sous trois Ponts d'Or Blanc

De Grisogono Tondo By Night

A New "Legacy" for an Old Company

Coach Inc. is returning to its roots in order to glimpse its future. A new dual-gender collection inspired by its heritage that will become the cornerstone of its business as well as impact every other aspect of the brand. The Legacy Collection is a lifestyle concept that includes an expansive selection of classic handbags with modern touches, vibrant small leather goods, funky shoes, hats, jewelry, eyewear and outerwear for fall and winter. 


“This is a big deal, it’s a very big deal,” said Coach chairman and chief executive officer Lew Frankfort, who called the collection “an inflection point” for the brand. “When we use the term ‘inflection,’ some of us mean ‘disruptive innovation,’ some of us mean ‘acceleration in business,’ some of us mean a ‘departure,’ ” he said. “Using business terms, I’d say it’s disruptive innovation. We’re hopeful that consumers will be surprised and delighted, that it will be very unexpected from Coach.”


Small women’s purses retail for $178, with larger tassel totes retailing for $798. The iconic new duffle will start at $348 and go up to over $1,000, depending on size and materials used. Exotic skins, such as pony hair, can drive the price up considerably. Men’s bags range from $398 for a courier style to $1,200 for a briefcase. While the arrival of Legacy will skew the brand’s price positioning somewhat  currently the bulk of Coach bags are $299 the higher price of the line doesn’t mark an entirely new chapter for the brand. 

Madison Park Collective Fashion Show Rehearsal

Thanks to my friend for sending me this link. Here is a little behind the scenes look and rehearsal of a LA fashion week show. 

Madison Park Collective Fashion Show

The Modern Day Suit

Empowering the man is the unifying tailored clothing message for fall, but its interpretation and execution varies widely. From traditional three-piece suits to updated youthful double-breasted ensembles and sharp crop blazers with playful pant volumes, designers showing in New York are ready to fulfill a variety of needs. 

MODEL: WILLIAM J. @ RE:QUEST; GROOMING BY SCOTT MCMAHAN AT AGENT OLIVER; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO; FASHION INTERN: AYANNA THOMAS

Michael Bastian’s three piece wool suit and cotton shirt. Michael Bastian tie.

Photo By: Eli Schmidt

Band of Outsiders’ wool suit and cotton shirt. Band of Outsiders tie.

Photo By: Eli Schmid

Calvin Klein Collection’s wool suit, wool cotton and silk vest and cotton shirt. Tommy Hilfiger gloves.

Photo By: Eli Schmidt

Ralph Lauren Purple Label’s three-piece wool suit and cotton shirt. Ralph Lauren Purple Label tie.

Photo By: Eli Schmidt

Ridding a New Pony

Scheduled for an April launch after a two-week exclusive at Bloomingdale’s this month. “With this launch, we bring to young women an appealing message: Live life in color by expressing every vibrant side of you,” said Marc Rey, president of International Designer Collections at L’Oréal USA. “The Big Pony Collection for Women is a bouquet of exciting fragrances for the iPod generation.” 


Fragrance number one is a sporty floral citrus, with blue lotus and grapefruit notes serving as the signature. Created by Bruno Jovanovic of International Flavors & Fragrances, it has top notes of grapefruit and honeydew, a heart of blue lotus and dewy jasmine and a base of cedarwood and musk. 


Scent number two, intended to be the sensual offering, is a floriental fruity juice with a cranberry and tonka mousse signature. Concocted by Honorine Blanc of Firmenich, it has top notes of grapefruit, mandarin, guava and water lily, a heart of lily of the valley, magnolia and honeysuckle, and a drydown of sandalwood, vanilla extract, marshmallow and musk. 


The collection’s number three scent is intended to be free-spirited, with a signature of pear and mimosa. The floral green juice, by Laurent Le Guernec of IFF, has top notes of juicy pear and kumquat, a heart of mimosa and buttercup, and a drydown of white amber and sandalwood.


The fourth fragrance in the lineup is an oriental floral which represents the stylish facet, built around cherry and purple amber notes; it also contains three proprietary molecules — cassyrein, cristallon and sylkolide. Created by Olivier Gillotin of Givaudan, it has top notes of blood orange, casseyrein and watermelon; a heart of magnolia flower and cristallon, and a drydown of sylkolide, sandalwood and purple amber. 


De Lesquen noted that the bottles are intended to be a more feminine, elegant version of the Big Pony for Men’s flasklike glass bottles, with bright, feminine colors and an elegant silver cap. On each bottle, the pony is embossed into the glass on the front and the brightly colored number is screened on the back. Each scent is an eau de toilette available in two sizes, $70 for 100 ml. and $55 for 50 ml.

Please don't look your best?

The Chinese Congress was just in session, fashion statements by congressional delegates also made headlines across the country. The beginning of a national sport called “Spot the Delegate Wearing Luxury Items!” and reporters and citizens alike were totally into it. Sightings were reported on the Internet and went viral in a nanosecond.

Li Xiaoling, daughter of Li Peng and ceo of a major power company in China showed up in a Pucci jacket with Chanel necklace.According to reports coursing through the Internet, she proposed that the government should keep a “moral behavior” dossier on all citizens. “So that the people will learn what is shame.” The Public responded “Shame on you!”









Other major sightings include Chanel boots on Song Zuying, a folk singer from the military and long rumored to be favored by the former Party Chief Jiang Zemin. Song showed up in a drab army coat and uniform when entering the conference hall. But once inside, reporters noticed that beneath the coat and uniform was a well-fitted suit (no label confirmed) with knee-high Chanel boots. 




One must be impressed by the brand-savvy Chinese public. Despite the fact that the majority of Chinese cannot afford luxury items, people seem to know their brands very well. Many bloggers could find the runway pictures to illustrate the source and mark of various pieces.Behind an ostensible hatred for luxury items, the real popular sentiment is directed against corruption. 

Cuff it out

I cant deny the fact that statement necklaces can make or break any look you are going for. But lets take a step back for a moment. What if you cant pull off a statement necklaces which always tends to be over the top and clunky. Here is the solution for that exact problem. Open up your jewel box gems and grab that statement cuff. The designer that is leading the way is Pamela Love's Arch Cuff! I have always adored Pamela Love  and her accessory driven passion, to satisfy all the needs to make a look come alive. Her Arch Cuff is no exception. Designed in lustrous brass measuring six inches in length, it is a true game changer in one’s jewelry arsenal as we move into the new season.

LA Fashion Week

So far the shows have been wonderful. I want to talk about a few designers and look at there collection so far. First we have,

Gypsy Junkies. Marcus Paglialonga was inspired by classic rock, and his Gypsy Junkies collection of colorful crushed velvet and floral prints was well suited to younger women channeling a Seventies boho-band vibe.

Nami. Nami Payackapan’s embroidered lace and silk dresses were feminine and flowy. The only issue i have with this collection everything is way to big and baggy. She could have benefited from making things sleeker and form fitting. 

Nuvula. Sisters Rebecca and Vanessa Victoria’s ample use of checkerboard prints gave their collection a costumey slant. This collection has often been referred to having its inspiration from Tim Burton’s “Alice in Wonderland.”